The Art of Making
Strawberries
I have been making Strawberries at Christmastime with my
sister and mother as long as I can remember. This family tradition has an
apprenticeship that I have brought my own children into. The shaping of the
delicate strawberries is a fine art which is passed from one generation to
another.
My mother presides over the whole affair, doling out the
responsibilities each person is gradually afforded. The first job of a young
Strawberry apprentice is grinding the nuts and coconut, or dying the almond
sliver stems in green food coloring. Mixing the concoction is a more advanced
position and one I was chastised for as recently as this year, for adding the
ingredients in the wrong order. My mother claimed this affected the consistency
and shaping ability of the batter. I strongly disagree, so do not be
intimidated about trying this at home.
When the concoction is properly mixed, the apprentices sit
at a table in assembly line fashion. An experienced (3-5 years) journeyman
starts by rolling walnut sized balls between their hands and placing them on
waxed paper. This job has one distinct benefit—when your hands become too
sticky to roll balls, you get to lick them off, finger by finger, before
washing your hands.
Job #2, is only given to Master Strawberry Makers (5-10
years). It requires experience and technique as you gently roll each ball first
in red sugar while simultaneously shaping it into a conical form. One learns
early to leave the top sugarless, so that when you dip it in green sugar for
the calyx (you learned a new word, didn’t you?) it will stick. The youngest
apprentice sits at the end of the table and pokes the green stem in.
My mother credits this recipe to Renee Pavey who was a
neighbor of hers in Columbia, MO in the early 1960’s. Mrs. Pavey donated the
unique treat to a church bazaar displayed in apothecary jars. She famously
didn’t let her kids eat any of them. My mom admired them so much she got
the recipe, and we have been making them as gifts for family and friends every
holiday season since. And, yes the kids have always gotten to eat them, at
times to the point of never wanting to eat another one.
















